Thursday, February 19, 2015

The Navajo Guardian

The Cigar City of Cuba; Pinar Del Rio was spell bounded by the tropical breeze flirting with palms, steely grey shades adoring the skyline, the froth kissed white sands in the foreground and waves crashing across. Frank Carter was driving through this tropical paradise island from Havana Airport for cracking off a deal. Being 27 he successfully steered the business of repairing & selling luxurious yachts in Miami. Every deal he made was a success but never kept close contacts with his clients as most of them came either from the Hollywood with hell lot of snob or the mafias with liters of bloodshed. Frank was a man of words; he knew to keep the promises and stressed in getting transparency in the business. He loved working with people having transparency in their businesses but rarely met such individuals. This deal was an eye opener for him stating that there exist noble men just like Don Vito Corleone.

It was almost 15:00 hrs when Frank reached the quaint town of Playa Maria La Gorda. The Casa Particluares of the city dated back to colonial eras and the architecture magnificence of Villas too depicted Spanish influence. The two storied houses with recessed porches, balconies and a small interior courtyard were adorned with carved wooden brackets and ballustrudes. The colonial houses had double hung sashed arch windows with Italian stained glasses replicating the scenes of late 70s. While the waves crashed against the rocks near Marianne Villa, the palm trees swayed to the breeze with leaves ruffling in the background and the seagulls well played their part of percussionists. The warm sunrays brightened the town and the colonial Marianne Villa that crowned the beach town. He parked the sedan outside the villa and headed towards the main door. The brawny guards escorted him into the villa, further strolling towards duplex office of Antonio Gonzalo; well known as the cigar king of Cuba. He was believed to be the most influential mafia or the godfather of Navajos in Cuba and supposed to have great hold in the government and rapport with politicos.

Frank was asked to wait at the top floor of the villa where the office was set up. Decked out with antiques right in the middle below a glass chandelier was the meeting table and in the corner surrounding the small tea table were the English wing chairs. The extended balcony gave a panoramic view of the coastline with sunkissed magenta skies and multihued waves of the blue. While he was engrossed in absorbing the whole setting of the office a well built man in his mid 60s appeared like a casino owner. Dressed in a 3 piece beige suit and a white hat, he introduced himself as Antonio Gonzalo with a smile and welcomed Frank prior retiring in his chair. Faint yellowish complexion, white whisker with long hair well defined his Navajo origin and his manners sketched him as a seasoned Cuban Mafiya.

Antonio Gonzalo was considered as The Guardian of the tribal communities of Amazon. He helped these tribal folks to earn their living, offered food, shelter and in return these tribal people cultivated and maintained tobacco, sugar and cocaine plantations for Antonio.  Famous as a Cigar King of Cuba he was admired for being honest, inculcating certain principles and transparency in his business even though a few illegal business were included under his empire. He was highly respected and was a man of words.
 He spoke in his gruff voice “How have you been?” I hope the journey wasn’t troublesome eh?” I know the Cuban climate is not favorable for the Americans but you see it is less hot when you guzzle down a Classic Cuban Mojito and a nice senora at your side haan?” to which Frank replied “ True!! But post the deal is done, the currency notes provide soothing effect that’s incomparable” and they both had a hearty laugh.

Soon the conversation was transferred from the small tea table to the meeting table. The papers were handed over of the yacht which Antonio had recently brought in to Cuba from Miami. Wasting no time Antonio ordered his consigliere to transfer the whole amount at the earliest in Frank Carter account. While they had a chat over the maintenance and repairs of the yachts a beep sound in Frank’s cell phone alerted him of the amount being transferred in the business account. And this moment on Frank was glad to know that Mr. Gonzalo adhered to honesty whilst being in a black collar business too. Once all the formalities were over they both sat in the balcony with a few Russian Labels for the company.

While sipping off the drink Antonia lighted a cigar and said “You know all this money of no use unless and until you do a bit of charity to cover your sins”. “I didn’t get you” said Frank to which Antonio said “Carter! My father was a Navajo community leader. What’s the use! He used his authority for big people and politicians and did no good for us and for the community”. “And today I am capable to do good for my community and I do it for the tribesmen down in Amazonian, hoping that my father’s sins too will be washed away”. I am a superstitious man Frank, when it comes to my family and my ancestors”

Frank smiled and said “Mr.Gonzalo, it’s a long time now that you mustn’t stress yourself about the past so much. Let it go as it is”. Gonzalo replied “You see we had a big family house back in Navajo Regions of America. My ancestors and grandparents were renowned people. I and other kids of the community grew up listening to my grandfather’s sagas of courage valor & honesty. But it was sad to see my father unlike my ancestors misusing the authority for own.”. “ Frank! I am ruling the island but there is one power that rules all of us and one day everyone has a meet with Him. And I too will be questioned for my deeds so I do as much as I can for hungry and the poor in some or the other way”

While conversing Gonzalo’s narrated childhood was narrated, Frank was surprised to see a Mafia like Gonzalo who idolized his grandfather, was proud of his ancestors, believed in good deeds, had principles to govern his businesses and by some or the other means helped the Navajo Community and also other tribes down in Amazon Basin. For frank it was as good as having a preaching session from a spiritual master other than a mean business deals that he cracked in the past. Frank learnt a lot about Gonzalo, his wish to change and uplift the life of the tribal in Amazon, conditions of Navajo in America and his sons’ attitude. At the end it was a bit emotional for Gonzalo to express well wishes for the youngsters of the community and harmony for the tribes. The western shoreline of Cuba was now painted with magenta hues and

They both were strolling towards the meeting room. Frank thanked Antonio Gonzalo for hosting him at the villa and concluded “Mr.Gonzalo you are the captain of the island and I regret not being like you.” To which Antonio Gonzalo smiled and said “Don’t regret my son, don’t. I regret at times being at such a pinnacle of the success. Everyone is hungry for your fortune and taste the power. Power corrupts mind. One has to use it properly. I wonder what I wanted to be and what I have become. I aspired to be a sailor and sail all my life. Now I fear that for the position I hold might be snatched away by my sons who are competing to rule. Hunger for power is not good Carter.” Soon they parted their ways and as usual Gonzalo known for being hospitable too sent a convoy for Frank Carter to see him off at the airport.

Westerly horizons were turning magenta hued with shades of lavender and crimson coloring the waves golden. The tropical island was awaiting the dusk to charm the revelers while Frank Carter left for Miami with a heavy heart that weighed much heavier than the amount paid by Antonio Gonzalo for the yacht.

Wednesday, October 1, 2014

Burdwan

Anglicized as Burdwan during the British Raj, the history of Bardhaman dates back to 5000 BC. The picturesque city in the East Indian State of West Bengal houses archeological evidences that claim its existence to Late Stone Age or Mesolithic Age. It was named as Bardhaman in the honour of Vardhaman Swami or Mahavira, the 24th Tirthankara in Jainism. It is believed that he had spent some time in Astikagrama and the ancient Jainism scriptures second the fact.

Situated 80kms away in the North Eastern part of Kolkata, Burdwan is far away from the capital city’s hustle-bustle. It has a rich multi-cultural heritage and it’s a reminiscent of Bengali Hindu architectural temples called as Deuls1. The city is also known as ‘Rice Bowl of Bengal’ due to the copious amount of rice it produces.

Sprawling rice fields kissing the distant horizons, ancient Deuls1, old houses constructed of narrow red bricks, timeless monuments of the old world, augment the city as a destination listed on the bucket-list of every laid-back traveler. 

Curzon Gate: Standing the test of bygone eras, this imposing British Era monument is located at the junction of Grand Trunk Rd. & B.C. Rd. Upon the orders of King of Burdwan; Maharaja Bijoy Chand Mahtab, the monument was erected in 1903 in the honour of Lord Curzon, the then Viceroy of Bengal. Its striking pillars, two side arches, magnificent stone carved lions on the sides and the three fairies on top are a perpetual reminder of region’s exceptional craftsmanship.

Sarbamangala Temple: Dedicated to Goddess Durga or Sarbamangala Devi, as she is popularly known; this ancient temple is the oldest religious marvel in Burdwan. Maharaja Kirtichand built the main shrine in the year 1702 A.D. The idol of Goddess Durga is believed to have been discovered in a kiln of limestone by the workers, being carved on a precious touchstone with 9 hands on each side having weapons as well as hand crafted symbols. The devotees often express that her presence so strong and intense, her blessing so comforting, her kindness so immaculate that every child (devotee) who visits her is bestowed with eternal joy.

Kankaleshwari Kalibari: Kalibari2 is located on an open swathe of land amidst the Kanchanpara locality of Burdwan. The temple is one of its kind in the country dedicated to the Hindu Goddess Kali; Goddess of Death & Destruction. Legend goes that the idol of Kali was discovered from the bed of river Damodar and the temple’s existence dates back to 1700.A.D. The idol is carved out of a black stone in a more intricate manner. It has 8 hands and it’s carved in a way that most of the bones, arterial veins of Goddess’s body are visible. Built in a square courtyard almost 200 years ago, the temple has 3 rooms of which 2 are dedicated to Lord Shiva and the center one for Goddess Kali.

108 Shiva Temples:  Located on the Burdwan-Siuri Highway, the complex houses 108 idols of Hindu deity Lord Shiva in 108 temples. Built in the year 1788 these temple were constructed under the orders of Maharaja Tilakchand’s widow; Rani Bishnu Kumari, the Queen of Burdwan during that time. It’s said that she had received divine instructions to set up these temples and post that she ordered for the complex to be constructed. The temples are designed in antique mud huts styles that are found in the countryside across the state of West Bengal. The complex is a nature’s canvas painted with picturesque landscape comprising of a beautiful garden, a lake and quaint Shiva Temples.

Golapbagh: Ornately dotted with variety of trees like Sal, Deo, Mango, Casuarina, Eucalyptus, Jamun, wide variety of Rose plants and other species, this garden is a haven for nature lovers. Golapbagh or the Garden of Roses is a popular tourist haunt in Burdwan. The Maharaja of Burdwan - Bijoy Chand Mahatab in the year 1884, sowed the idea of this zoological & botanical garden. And today it has not just flourished as a tourist spot but also as an academic campus of the University of Burdwan.


Magnificent monuments like Tomb of Sher Afgan, Sufi Pir Baharam Sakka's Tomb, Bijoy Bahar, Burdwan Church and few others are also worth a visit as each one of them has a history behind and a tale to narrate.

Though the old-world charm of Burdwan continues to woo travellers, it has also developed embracing the modernity. And with the advent of globalization malls, shopping centers, fitness clubs, salon too have begun to thrive here giving the quaint town a makeover. But what has evolved to perfection is the Burdwanese cuisine.

Apart from staple rice & fish recipes, Burdwanese sweetmeats have allured the sweet tooth of millions. The iconic sweets like Sitabhog, Mihidana and Lenghca are said to have originated here in 1900. They are cooked innumerous times and have only perfected over the years leaving the taste buds enchanted. Also, these sweetmeats have an interestingly intriguing past and hence a visit to Burdwan is must to savor the good times it serves.


1 - A name given to Hindu Temple style that became standardized in Bengal, Orissa, North India and Deccan India.

2 - Bengali term that translates to House of Hindu Deity Goddess Kali


Monday, September 22, 2014

Gokarna

Burgeoned alongside the western coast of Southern India in the North Kannada District of Karnataka State, the quaint town is pilgrims’ paradise & beach-lovers haven. Bestowed with pristine beaches and timeless temples of Hindu deities like Lord Shiva, Lord Maha Ganapati, Goddess Bhadrakali and many more, Gokarna is termed as the ‘Kashi of South India’.  

Legend has it that Lord Shiva emerged here from Cow’s Ear – the cow being Prithvi1   And since then the temple town has been christened as Gorkarna. The Mahabaleshwar Temple dedicated to Lord Shiva is constructed in a Dravidian architectural style. It houses ShivaLinga2 and a 1500 year old idol of Lord Shiva. Since centuries the temple has been witnessing priests, pilgrims and monks submerging themselves in religious rituals, offering prayers, meditation or performing religious ceremonies. The temple is abuzz with holy hymns and chants that emanate somniferous spirituality. There is an air of peace and serenity in every corner of the temple and a visit is enough for the visitor to get the soul rejuvenated. On an average day, the tinsel town wakes up by early sunrise. The two main streets that connect the town with surrounding districts are thoroughly washed and the residents then adorn it with Rangoli3. Holy chants begin resonating from every household and the fragrance of incense sticks fill the atmosphere with mystic peace. It seem like the whole town has woken up from a deep slumber only to transcend in spirituality.

Sandwiched between the hills and seas, Gokarna is blessed with four scenic beaches namely the pristine Om Beach, the quaint Kudle Beach, Half-moon & Paradise beach. White sands, crystal clear water and serenity of Om Beach beckons every backpacker. Its two semi-crescent shores that are naturally joined together, resemble the Hindu religious symbol ‘OM’ and the only how the beach got its name.  A short walk away from the Om Beach is Kudle beach that has graduated as a surfing destination and provides perfect waves for the surfboard to flirt with. The other beaches like Paradise Beach & Half-Moon Beach are nestled in a secluded location with fewer inhabitants.

The laid back nature, scenic locales, captivating ancient temples and virgin coastline places Gokarna in the bucket list of every tourist as a must see destination. And its epiphany sunsets, sun-kissed warm sands, breezy twilight, percussion of waves are a few daily shows performed by the Mother Nature that renders every traveler spell bound.



1 –  Mother Earth
2 – Symbolic representation of Hindu deity Lord Shiva
3 - A traditional Indian art of decorating  the ground with colored powder.


Wednesday, October 10, 2012

Tawang


Breathing lowers, eyes get transfixed and soul flies off leaving the senses spellbound. Nothing seems breath taking as the 400 years old monastery looming across the horizon. Perched at a height above 12,155ft and having drenched in quintessential aura of Buddhism, this land of Monpa Tribe is nestled in the knolls of dawn-lit mountains. Nuzzled in the icy folds of higher Himalayan foothills of North Easthern Indian state of Arunachal Pradesh, Tawang is scarcely populated mountainous track lying roughly on the northwest extreme. Mesmerising lofty mountains, clear sparkling lakes, deep gorges, exquisite Gompas and quaint villages shade this tinsel town as the basket of adventure. The high altitude bare mountains, uninhabited hilly belt ranging from 6000 ft to 11,000.ft comprising of plateau and sparsely populated narrow valleys graduates Tawang as the Mecca of trekkers and hikers.

The magnanimous monastery offers an inebriating & picturesque view of the Tawang Chu river valley. The monastery appears like a humongous fortress as if guarding the votaries of Mahayana Buddhism in the wide valley below. Fondly known as Galden Namgyal Lhatse, which translates to “celestial paradise in a clear night” in Tibetan dialect, has a tale to tell.  And the tale is indeed captivating with the thundering waterfalls, bursting bubbles of hot water spring and the flirtatious temperate breeze playing the role of percussionists in the background. The legend goes that the site on which the Gompa stands is considered extremely pious and divine. It’s said that when Merag Lama wasn't able to locate the place for the construction of the monastery, he intended to seek divine guidance. He was praying inside a cave and when he returned post finishing the prayers, he found that his horse was missing. On searching, he saw that horse was standing on a hilltop.  Considering this as a sign of divine blessing, the location was then finalized for construction of the monastery. The foundation stone of this celestial monastery was laid by Merag Lama; the monk of the time of 5th Dalai Lama. The whole structure was brought from Tibet, piece by piece; on horseback and it was assembled here. The monastery was founded in 1681 by Merag Lama Lodre Gyatso in compliance with the desires of 5th Dalai Lama, Nagwang Lobsang Gyatso.

Having witnessed the quest for survival of Tibetans and harsh weather conditions since centuries, the 3 storey fortified monastery spans across 150 square meters having 65 residential structures, lanes and by lanes inside. With the capacity of accommodating 750 monks, the three storied assembly hall of the monastery houses a colossal 28 ft high golden statue of Buddha, striking deity idols, Thangkas and murals. Abundant with spiritual treasures it has preserved holy Buddhist scriptures, pictographs and an exceptional collection of ancient Tibetian Thangkas along with the renowned Buddhist scriptures Kangyur & Tangyur those are inscribed in gold since centuries.  The main assembly hall or Duknang is a house to an array of Buddha statues in various poses. Bejeweled with sacred knowledge, Parkhang hall is actually a library with a wealth of Thangka-manuscripts and sacred books. Waking up to the sound of gongs and prayer bells is blissful enough for a spiritual beginning. Watching maroon-robed monks chanting, praying & meditating near the 28-feet high golden Buddha decked with horns and incense braziers pacifies the soul. Being synonymous to a peaceful and solitary retreat, the gompa buzzes of religious activity, while its craft center produces intricately woven carpets.

Bustling bazaar, fluttering prayer flags, stone and timber houses of Monpas add to the charm of Tawang. These original inhabitants of Tawang are the descendants of Mongoloid stock. Their primary source of income is based on agriculture and animal husbandry.  As hearty as theirs yaks are, so are the Monpas who tend to their yaks and brew their own alcohol. Armed with a philosophy of living their lives to the fullest, they enjoy life and when spirits are high they often break into song & dance.  The local markets are dotted with shops selling woolen shawls, carpets and the wrap skirts worn by Monpa women. The Craft Center of the Tawang Monastery produces fine woolen carpets in an array of colorful designs. Also there Serdukpen shawls Apatani jackets and scarves, Adi skirts, Mishmi shawls, blouses and jackets, wancho bags. Craft- Centers at Bomdila and Tawang offer very fine carpets in multiple shades and patterns. Carpets of ethnic Tibetan designs are way too popular and are made of pure wool. Couples of souvenir shops in the Old Market and the Tibetan settlement showcase an array of wood items carved by the locals. Hand carved special bowls, spoons; masks those are sported in religious dances and ethnic Monpa & Tibetan utensils used for cooking can are up for sale. The renowned Buddhist prayer wheels, flags and statues carved out of wood as well as brassware are even sold in the market.

Urgelling Monastery:  A few miles from Tawang to the south is the birthplace of His Holi Highness the sixth Dalai Lama; Ngawang Gyamtso, the sacred Urgelling monastery. The 6th Dalai Lama is the only Indian to have risen to such a high position in Gelupka Sect of Buddhism so far. Urgelling monastery traces backs its roots to the 15th century CE, i.e. around 1489. Established by Urgen Sangpo as a Buddhist spiritual center  the monastery had faced invasion and resurrection. Today it houses a single temple and shelters some of the monks who lead a simple life, practice meditation and other Buddhist practices.

Taktsang Monastery:  Nestled amidst serenity and dense coniferous forest with snow capped peaks in the background is the Taktsang Monastery. Well known as “Tiger’s Den” this is an ideal setting for those who have chosen the path of Nirvana and the monastery have been by Guru Padmasambhava in the 8th century CE. The quest to begin the inner journey and solace ends here, The monastery offers a perfect place to seat, meditate and lets one’s unite with celestial universe. 

Tawang War Memorial:  Every land has its hero and India has a history of its numerous heroes. Namgyal Chorten is proof about Indian Army’s extraordinarily trained and unequaled men. They were the heroes who ferociously fought till their last droplet of blood shaded the ground red and their last round of bullets silenced the hordes of Chinese. Standing tall, commanding respect and overlooking the Tawang Chu valley is the 40 ft. Multi hued Tawang War Memorial. Commemorating the bravery of the Indian heroes of the Indo-Shino war of 1962, the memorial has names of 2,420 dead soldiers etched in gold on around 32 black granite plagues. The war memorial has two halls. One of them houses the priceless collection of personal articles of martyrs, while the other is used for sound and light shows, depicting their heroic deeds. Dalai Lama has blessed the entire memorial and in addition, the Holy Scriptures, an idol of Lord Buddha and Arya Avlokiteshwara were also sent by Dalai Lama to this memorial. These idols have been kept in the vaults of the stupa.

Tawang is not just a house to several other monasteries and nunneries but boasts of several adventure sports too. The rivers Tawang-Chu and Namjang-Chu are a hot spot for river-rafting activities leaving other options too for rock-climbing, paragliding, skating and other winter sport activities.

Food for feat: And yes, Tawang cooks up some scrumptious delicacies for the ardent foodies and those who are interested to gamble a bit with their taste buds. The infamous Tibetan delicacies like Thupka, or momos are available at every roadside corner. But the appetizing Paratha- Sabzi is a must try and can be eaten hot from the roadside eateries. A tiny shack named Annapurna serves flavorsome “Alu Chips”. Tasting a traditional Monpa cuisine needs a tongue of steel and an iron heart as they tend to use a generous amount of chilies and fermented cheese that gives a strong flavor which not recommend for the weakhearted. One can try “Zan”, the staple dish of the Monpas which is made of Millet flour with ingredient including vegetables or meat to which fermented cheese, soya bean or other herbs are added too. If this isn’t filling then “Gyapa Khazi” is the hunger cruncher. It’s a Monpa version of Pulao made of rice, fermented cheese and tossed with small dried fishes or shrimps, chilies ginger and other spices. One can also try “Khura”, the Monpa Pancake which is generally served with tea. Apart from Apong which is a local drink made of rice and millet, Butter Tea too is famous beverage. It is smooth and shooting too. Monpas being mostly non-vegetarians are fond of these delicacies. Apart from these there are many mount-watering Monpa recipes like Khatzi, Pua, Kyola, Kharang.Bak-Tza Margu. Those with the street food fixation can hunt for local eateries to explore the appetizing side of Tawang.

Fascinating Festivities: Losar &Torgya

As enchanting as this paradisaical destination is so are the vibrant festivities of this land. Considered as the most important of all Buddhist festivals, Festival of Losar commemorates the Tibetan New Year in accordance with the lunar calendar. It falls in the end of February or early March and is celebrated for 8 - 15 days. It’s marked with ancient rituals, stage fights between good and evil, chanting and passing through the crowds with fire torches. Amplifying the spirit of festivity, the dance of the Ibex deer and the dramatic battles between the King & his ministers are phenomena to be witnessed. For the ones who follow Buddhism, Losar is a sacred time of feasting and celebrations. Exquisitely shaded homes with flour paintings of the Sun & moon and the tungsten light shimmering of the small lamps illuminated in the houses are worth capturing in the camera lens. Glistening lamps, holy chants and hoisting prayer flags leverage the piousness of the sacred festival of Losar.

Another major festival celebrated only by the Lamas of the monastery is Torgya. Being one of the most colorful festivals of Arunachal Pradesh, the celebration continues for three days commencing from the 28th day of the eleventh month of the lunar calendar. Amidst the traditional Tibetan music, Chham; a sacred dance is performed by monks dressed in mythological attires and masks during the festival. The dance depicts numerous holy, earthly characters and it is performed for three days. Commencing the festival on its 1st day, monks offer a sacrificial cake known as Torma which is offered to the fire ignited in the courtyard of the monastery which is then accompanied by the reading of Holy Scriptures by the beating of drums. On the last day of Torgya a ritual of worship is performed known as Wang. Here an assembly is organized and every individual is then allowed to participate in the holy rituals under the guidance of the monk. A long procession at the end is taken out and the large Thangka is kept outside for public view. On the onset of this festival, a pyramidal structure of Torgya is made by the Lamas, who offer prayers, lighten every corner of the monastery with colourful lights and perform dance to signify the victory of good over the evil spirits.

Even in the advanced world of zillion technologies, there do exists the creed those remind every traveler of the days when Man loved to live in the laps of Mother Nature. And this unexplored celestial land is no exception to it. The voyagers will always find the spirituality of Tibet in the air. No matter how the world advances, the tribal culture, tradition, the Gompas, monks’ prayers and chanting will always emanate for the divine cause of peace and well being of the whole cosmos.

Friday, November 4, 2011

Legend of Spring Ride

It’s that time of the year when meadows are carpeted with multi-hued wild flowers. The breeze flirts around, accompanied with a chilly yet comforting glare. The warmth of morning sun, the light amber rays, the
dodger blue skies dotted with scattered clouds inspire to leave the cradle called couch; and ride away. While walking past the side walk towards the garage, the auburn leaves ruffle, sounding like a cheering
crowd. The heart thumps faster than before; much faster, just as before jumping off a cliff; just as before confessing your love; just as before the graduation results were out; just as before owing a
promotion letter. And now the adrenalin rushes in- just when the soul is about to unveil the riding legend in within. Feels like being reborn.

The chrome silencers are the first to be spotted, though its a silencer but never chokes the emotions. The wide carbon black torso appears like a burly navy seal about to strike coldly. The stunning headlight stares straight into the viewers’ retina like a hovering hawk about pounce on its prey and as the ignition is switched
on, it roars like a Lion. The iconic engine shoves up a max power and the torque bestowing a feel of marching on a WW I German Tank. The thumping sound commands attention with awe. And it’s now a feeling of being one with the machine arises entwining the heart beats with its thump.

The wind salutes the machine and its master by merely gliding past, not brushing against the visor. The mountains seem silently witnessing the ride, the scattered clouds begin following and the rider’s silhouette
emerging out of the amber sun rays transforms the appearance like a knight emerging dressed in shining armor. Etching the century old tradition of leading in the battle of traffic, it tears off every
chase with ease, rendering overtakers and passersby spellbound. Even the wild flowers twist around to catch a glimpse of the force that repelled their oscillatory movement with a gust of wind as the machine
rode past.

When the whole world looks upon, the machine then anoints its rider, or so called better half as the successor or heir. Centuries have been a witness to the fact that its not a rider who produces the machine but
a legend called Harley’s gives birth to a riding legend.

Tuesday, November 1, 2011

Kalimpong


Adorned with a breathtaking backdrop of Eastern Himalayas, carpeted with virgin forests and encircled by unchartered villages, this place offers a spectacular milieu of towering snow capped peaks. Situated 4000 ft above sea level in the beautiful knolls of Darjeeling between Siliguri & Gangok, it shares borders with Sikkim, Bhutan, Nepal and Bangladesh which are all within a few hours drive from here.

Well known as the floral heaven of India and the home of the world famous orchids & cacti, this place is a house to some of the finest and the rarest specimens of Flora and Fauna. It is believed that a visit to Kalimpong is incomplete without visiting its Floral Nurseries. Located on top of a ridge overlooking the eastern bank of river Teesta, it offers an excellent view of Mt. Kanchejunga. The vast expanse of green treasure rolled out over the meadows; dotted with wild colorful lowers and rivulets wandering idly is a portrait in itself autographed by Mother Nature.

Woven with a rare ethnic blend of hilly natives the tradition of hospitality in this secluded retreat has been practiced since centuries. Famous for indigenous artifacts, the artisans here craft traditional artwork and jewelry those are much admired all over the world. The weekly markets on Wednesdays and Saturdays comprises of some interesting sights like conventional Tibetan and Bhutanese handicrafts, woodcarvings, copper-wares, feng-shui bells, tapestry bags, scrolls, paintings , statues, wall hanging, knifes, Porcelain, Crystal, Thankhas, Dragons, bone stuff, masks and souvenirs.

This artistic heaven not only welcomes the art and nature admirers but also the ardent foodies are well fed. For all those who savor the taste of different cuisines, the hill station serves a platter of multicultural delicacies. The much famed snack; Momos is a common sight here. These steamed dumplings are stuffed with either meat or vegetable cooked in a wrapping of flour and are served with watery soup leaving ya tastes bud craving to have more. The next thing on menu to be explored is Churpee, a hard cheese produced from Yak's or Chauri's (A mix breed of yak & cattle) milk. Another delicacy that’s more in demand is Thupka; hearty Tibetan noodle served in soup with minced meat is a must try.

This ecological hotspot served as a gateway to the oriental world some centuries ago housing a couple of relics. These relics have witnessed the growth of Kalimpong since the days of Silk Route voyages undertaken by distinct traders and explorers of the east. One of the relics are Monasteries or Gompas. Marking their presence here way before 1700 A.D. , the famous monasteries include Tongsa Gompa, Tharpa Choling Gompa and Zong Dog Palri Fo-Brang Gompa.

Having withstood and witnessed rough weather for centuries together, the Thongsa Gompa is a renowned Bhutanese Monastery. Established in 1692 this is an oldest marvel built under the guidance of Bhutan King. The monks are often seen offering prayers and meditating from dawn to dusk.
Dating back to the year 1926, Tharpa Choling Gompa is situated at Tirpai Hill and belongs to the Yellow Hat sect of Tibetan Buddhism; the Gelukpas. Adorned with idols of the Bhaisajya, Sakyamuni and Maitreya Buddhas which translates to past / present and future, this Gompa is a must visit. The tiny hall inside the Gompa is artistically bejeweled with the images of flayed animals and humans. The Gompa is a 40 minute walk from the main town.

Renowned as Durpin Monastery, the Zong Dog Palri Fo-Brang Gompa was constructed in mid 70s in the hills of Durpin Dara. Sanctified by Dalai Lama this Gompa houses rare paintings and the most sacred text Kunguyar. The sacred text comprises of all the 108 volumes those were carried by Dalai Lama during his exile. Resonating a perfect impression of Buddhist architectural style, the walls inside exhibit exceptional paintings and a three dimensional Mandala located on the first floor prayer hall leaves every visitor enchanted. Flanked by a fascinating view of landscapes and the distant Himalayan ranges, the Gompa leaves every visitor transfixed. The emanating radiance of wisdom, soulful fragrance of peace and the transcendental tranquility billows through the ambiance of this Gompa throughout the day.

Scaling heights of success may not be so adventurous as scaling heights of mountain range is. At every altitude the universe unifies to gift mind and soul a pure ecstasy. A glare of astonishment flirts around at a height of 1650 meters at the Delo View Point. This highest point in the town of Kalimpong paints a mesmerizing view of the snow clad mountains and the Teesta River Valley.
Durpin Dara Hills is a Nature's canvas showcasing the mystical mount-scapes painted with multiple hues during dawn & dusk. Elevated at an altitude of 1400 meters, the hill top offers a spectacular view of the Chola Hills of Sikkim, distant plains of Siliguri, emerald valleys of River Teesta & Rangit and an awe – inspiring picturesque of Mt. Kanchendzonga rendering the voyagers spellbound.

This isn't it ! A lot more is to be explored. Its an ascend where every trek is complemented with enchantment and serenity. And while descending comes along a mystical fragrance of memories that lasts for centuries.

Sunday, October 24, 2010

Hrishikesh

Nestled scenically in the laps of Sivalik Range in Himalayas; is a spiritual town of Hrishikesh. Located in Dehradun district in the north Indian state of Uttarakhand, the holy city is a revered pilgrimage center among the Hindus. Burgeoned in natural splendor the city is a Gateway to Himalayas and an origination point for the “Char Dham” pilgrimage; one of the most sacred pilgrimage tours — Badrinath, Kedarnath, Gangotri and Yamunotri. Flourished at the foothills of Himalayas this sanctified city gets its name “Hrishikesh” after Lord “Vishnu” which means ‘lord of the senses’. The city comprises of the main town of Hrishikesh along with few distinct sections encompassing hamlets and settlements on both the banks of the river Ganges. Primarily the main town Hrishikesh comprises of an expansive commune known as “Muni-ki-Reti” meaning "sands of the sages" and the home of Sivananda Ashram; The Divine Life Society founded by Swami Sivananda popularly known as Sivananda Nagar. The north of Hrishikesh comprises of the temple section of Lakshman Jhula, and a little further north are the assorted Ashrams around Swarg Ashram on the east bank.

 The sacred river representing country’s piousness, the Ganges flows through Hrishikesh. Shredding her teen image of playful rivulet flowing from the Shivalik Ranges of the Himalayas, here she grows into a blooming young river commencing her journey further into the plains of northern India. Her turquoise hued clear water gushing swiftly with expeditious currents paints a devastatingly exquisite scene. Thousands of devotees, pilgrims and tourist throng the city each year from India and overseas. The feeling of divinity captivates one’s senses even whilst staring the banks of Ganges adorned with delicate flowers, and a converting of solitary Saints, Monks, priest and spiritually awakened individuals passing by.
 Hrishikesh, ever so often tagged as “the world capital of Yoga”, houses numerous yoga centers those are much older than any other yoga organizations in the world. One of the oldest yoga establishments is Kailas Ashram Brahmavidyapeetham; an institution dedicated to preserve and promote the traditional Vedantic Studies has been a part of this institution for more than 120 years. Legendary personas such as Swami Vivekananda, Swami Ramanand Tirtha and Swami Shivananda were alumni of this institution prior commencing their noteworthy journeys. The tinsel town has been a silent observer of lives of several yogis and Sages having lived and practiced penance here. It is said and well - believed that meditation in Hrishikesh brings one closer to self - realization and “Moksha” and so does a dip in the divine river that flows throughout.

The town awakens at the early hours to the bellowing of conches and the “Vedic” chants. Blossoming with fragrant lilacs, roses, gerberas and holy basil which is considered of prime significance in offerings among the Hindu Gods the spirituality then emanates in the air. Most of the congregations of worshippers take a dip in the river as a part of a ritual and then proceeding ahead to perform “Pujas” in the temple.  Later the Gods are bejeweled in the colorful garlands, vermilion, turmeric and are ornamented in silk attire. Array of colognes emanate off the incense sticks followed by rhythmic chanting of prayers or “Vedas” in the temples mesmerizing one’s curiosity.

The bridge that bridges the banks of River Ganges is popularly termed as “Laxman Jhula” and is a well known landmark in the city. The existence of this bridge dates back to the mythological era of “Ramayana” and is believed that “Laxmana” the brother of Hindu deity Lord Rama, crossed river Ganga on jute rope where the present bridge stands today. The 450 feet long jute-rope Bridge was replaced by iron-rope suspension bridge in 1889 by a British Officer but unfortunately it was washed away in the 1924 floods and afterwards was then replaced by a stronger present bridge. To the west of the bridge stands a temple devoted to “Laxmana”; the brother of Lord “Rama”.  “Laxman Jhula” offers an astonishing view of ravishing beauty of River Ganges. Watching the mountains roofed in green belt with turquoise hued Ganges flowing by and chilly breeze swirling around, crafts the bridge as a great place to be at. The river here abounds of fishes and often pilgrims are seen feeding a stream of fishes from the bridge or at a place where the fishes gather while the pilgrims drop food for them. A boat ride down the river is recommended as it offers a panoramic view of the bridge. The background colored with lush green mountain ranges and an unblemished steely grey Lakshman Jhula in the foreground seems like a portrait in itself autographed by Mother Nature.

Blending its modern appearance with inner enlightenment the 13 storey Kailash Niketan Temple is the next stop post crossing Laxman Jhula. The Temple houses several sculptures of Gods and Goddesses and is a pure example of contemporary manifestation enlightened with the rays of serenity and spirituality.  The experience of spiritually is not only limited to the plains of Hrishikesh but is also felt at an altitudes. Commanding an extravagant view of the region, situated on the altitudes of 5500 feet, abiding in equanimity is the legendary temple of Nilkanth Mahdeo. Encircled by serenity of the forests the temple is situated on a hill top above “Swarg Ashram”. Legend goes that in the mythological era when the ocean was being churned for 'Amrit' (Potion for immortality), first venom oozed out and this was the place where lord Shiva had drunk the venom to save the mankind. After consuming it, his neck had turned blue with the poison and hence he was called 'Neelkanth', the one with blue neck. Every year in the months of monsoon - mid July to August - fairs are held where thousands of devotees visit temple, taking a holy dip in the fresh water spring within temple complex pilgrims proceed to pay visit to the lord. Scorched eyes long to have a view of the Lord Shiva who has been marking his presence since ages and eras, in a serene pose yet so very powerful and commanding by nature, the deity welcomes and blesses one and all. 

To the east of the Ganges is a place bustling with activities all the times, better known as “Swarg Asharm”.  Ashrams, temples, restaurants, shops, eating joints are well developed in this area. Founded by Swami Vishuddhananda fondly known as “Kaali Kamli Wale”, the ashram is one of oldest in Hrishikesh and is adorned by many statues. The spiritual air of the spiritual soul pacifies one and all. Crossing over the “Ram Jhula” towards the western bank of Ganges is Shivanand Ashram: The Divine Life Society: One of the oldest and most active ashrams in the area. A doctor by profession, Swami Shivanand renounced his life in Delhi and came to Hrishikesh in the year of 1924 and set up Divine Life Society in 1936. He authored approximately 200 books on yoga, health and spiritual life prior his death in 1963. The ashram organizes regular yoga classes, meditation courses and performs and promotes studies in texts like Upanishads and Gita very often. Spiritual and activities related with Hinduism are the practiced every day. The ashram runs a biggest charitable hospital from which hundreds of localities avail the facilities of free of charge medical services.

Located in the heart of the ancient town of Hrishikesh near Triveni Ghat on the banks of River Ganges, abiding in silence since centuries is an aesthetic “Bharat Mandir”. The temple was built by “Adiguru Shankara Charya”; a renowned saint who lived in the 12th century. The internal chamber of the temple houses an idol of Lord Vishnu which is carved out of a single rock of “Saligram”; a rock that possess divine powers. The idol is sheltered from above by an awning of “Shree Yantra”. The temple also house several other old statues, coins, pots and other things of historical significance.

Nothing seems phenomenal as the “Ganga Aarti” of “Triveni Ghat”.  The ghat is a foremost place where pilgrims crowd to take a holy dip and a spectacular “Ganga Arati” is performed regularly in the dusk. Being a principle place for taking a holy dip in, the Ghat derives its name due to confluence of three rivers namely, Ganga, Yamuna & Sarawati.  The most enthralling and eye – catching event at the dusk being “Ganga Arati” scores of devotees throng the steps of ghat at the dusk for performing Arati. The priest and saints carry out the ritual, while the fiery orange fuelled with multiple hued golden flames transpire out of massive pure ghee lamp being rotated in the circular motions brightly lighting up the whole place. The Triveni Ghat then witnesses the illuminated statue of Lord Shiva amidst the river and Vedic chants fill the atmosphere in the praise of the river Ganges.  The bellowing conches and religious songs spiritually awaken the atmosphere with divinity blending in air mesmerizing one to the tunes of the songs sung in devotion. It is here at dusk, that scenario quenches one’s thirst for peace and the soul entwines into the feeling of oneness connecting itself with the universe. It is then when the whole cosmos conspires together to gift mankind the tranquility and inner joy beyond expression or one’s imagination. Later devotees float their respective leaf bowls filled with flowers and an oil lamp into the river. The reflection of lamps enamels the water with golden ripples. The radiance emitting out of the statue of Lord Shiva amidst the river soothes the tired souls and eyes follow the lamps till they disappear. The ceremony symbolizes a revival of hope, remembrance of the kind deeds of the river since ages and praying for the betterment of the mankind.

Hrishikesh is one of the holiest communes in India and every corner of the city is considered as sanctified one. The city possesses the magic of a casting spell to transform and balance the inward journey with an outward adventure. Dwelling on the laps of lower Himalayas, surrounded by untouched countryside with panoramic views, numerous village treks, jungle walks in rhododendron forests, with the banks of Ganges that is dotted with numerous ancient temples transforms the holy town into a heaven making one say “Come home to Hrishikesh”